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San Pedro de Atacama

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From the original scout there have been several minor revisions to the route.  San Pedro de Atacama is a new addition and certainly a new highlight of the tour.  The scenery here is as hallucinogenic as the cover of a Yes album cover.  Whether you are an astronomer, archaeologist, geologist, adrenalin junkie or just enjoy sipping the finest cappuccino in a shady adobe café, this desert oasis will make for a fantastic rest stop. Smoldering volcanoes tower over this tourism mecca.  The dusty cobbled streets are lined with restaurants and cafes that prepare a variety of local and international delicacies.  Looking down the alleyways reveals a myriad of colour as the local artisans pawn their handicrafts and alpaca garments, yet the main plaza is cooled by the shade of mature trees.  Bordering the plaza is a post card perfect quaint little church.  Local tour operators host a range of day trips including sand boarding, climbing an active volcano, visiting the steaming geysers, soaking the buoyant waters of a salt pan lake, or touring through the incredible sedimentary and aeolian formations of the Valle de Luna.  The climatic conditions here provide for some of the best star gazing in the world.  What a crazy place! Historically this town was just a pit stop on the trading route between the highlands and the coast.  It became established when it was visited by Pedro de Valdivia in 1540.  A complex irrigation system sourced from ground water supports local agriculture and some farmers today are still using terraces that are over 1000 years old.  Tourism is the main economic input these days.  In fact when I arrived I had to ask five different people for directions because the first four were all tourists.  This will be our first exposure to life on the Altiplano, not a bad start.   

Posted May 26, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
News Briefs | Ramblings
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Biking in Quito

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Sunday May 3rd, marked the sixth anniversary of the Ciclopaseo.  Originally it would take place on the last Sunday of each month, but at the anniversary celebration last week the Mayor, Andres Vallejo, announced it will now happen every Sunday. The event was originally designed to promote the use of the bicycle as a means of public transport in the city of Quito, where the main avenue, Rio Amazonas, is closed to motorized traffic between the airport and the plaza in the Old Town, almost 30km of road.  But the effect has been that the road has been given back to the people.  It’s not just cyclists; rollerbladers, baby carriages, skateboarders, joggers, pedestrians, vendors, street performers and even marching bands are participating in the enjoyment of a car free zone in the heart of the city centre. The event has been coordinated by Diego Puente, founder of Ciclopolis, a politically active organization for cycle advocacy and environmental protection.  Their other projects include an “earn a bike program” for underprivileged children, women specific cycling classes, rental bikes, cultural bike tours and installation of bike racks throughout the city.  The Ciclopaseo is extremely well organized with hundreds of police and volunteers at each intersection directing traffic, there are water stations and bike repair stations every few kilometers.  Recreation improves the health of the people, eliminating fossil fuel emissions reduces urban smog, but most importantly it’s a lot of fun. Every city in the world could benefit from the model they have created here. On Sunday Dec 6th, after cycling nearly 13,000km, from Rio de Janeiro, the inaugural expedition of the Vuelta Sudamericana will roll into Quito.  The finish line for this 134 day cycling adventure will be at the Arc in El Ejido Park.  After exploring the South American continent by bike, these intrepid cyclists will be welcomed and congratulated by all the non motorized enthusiasts at the Ciclopaseo.  

Posted May 12, 2009 by Randy Pielsticker
News Briefs | Ramblings
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