It’s hard to believe that we are already in Austria, the third country of eight, and are rapidly approaching Vienna, the halfway point of the tour. This last section from Regensburg to Linz has been a little different, but variety is truly the spice of life. Jon has been cooking up meals of decadence and extravagance. I keep trying to remind him that we are camping!! We’ve had smoked salmon sandwiches, duck breast in an apple glaze and roasted hazelnut spatzle… unbelievable! We have been following the Donauradweg, but the river has swollen, as each day we cross several tributaries supplying this great water way. Passau was our second stop and made for a very interesting destination. The Dom there is the home to the worlds largest Pipe Organ. Actually, it’s five pipe organs that have all been connected and controlled from the same keyboard. The cathedral that houses it is ornate with sculptures, mouldings and paintings throughout. There was a large group of us who went to attend an evening of local talents performing Bach and Hayden. I’ve always been amazed by how acoustics play such an integral role in the architectural design of these ancient buildings. It just so happened that that day was the Solstice, so in celebration of the longest day, we all returned to camp and sipped Grand Marnier until the sunset. Passau is also the site of the confluence of three major rivers, the Inn, the Ilz and of course the Danube. And this is where the many of the River Cruises start. By taking the noon sailing several of my clients were able to spend the morning exploring the history of Passau and then cruise into Linz. The boats are quite luxurious with bar and restaurant services and a sun deck to enjoy the Danube from a different perspective. It’s important to take advantage of all that these places have to offer. Today we are in Linz for a day of rest, but its not like things have been too stressful lately.
As for me, well I have been trying to exploit the ZEN of cycle touring.
I’m amazed at the technology in the bike industry. My bike is easily the biggest hunk of junk on tour but I love her! Lizzie is my best traveling companion and, by the end of this tour, we will have covered over 65,000km and 22 countries since 2003 when I crossed Australia solo.
But it’s not just the technology of the bikes, it’s the accessories too. People have speedometers, odometers, thermometers, inclinometers, altimimeters, barometers, GPS units, heart rate monitors and calorie counters. By measuring all of these things you are able to completely quantify the trip. But then you spend the whole time taking measurements and not enjoying the quality of the experience. I have stripped my riding kit of any data collection devices, including a watch. I’ve even gone so far as to remove the optical display from my shifters. I still carry my camera and my journal, but I find the best days are when I’m riding solo not looking at the clock or my speed, I just let my legs set the pace and I spend much more time taking in the sites and enjoying the scenery. Biking is all about simplicity and efficiency and when you incorporate all these instruments you lose the Zen of biking. Keep it real!
In our last stretch from Ulm to Regensburg we broke the 1000km mark, having covered 1140km in 13 riding stages. It is strange how it feels like we’ve known each other much longer than two and a half weeks.
Each day is filled with so many new experiences that it would seem we’ve been traveling forever. I account this to the nature of cycle touring. There’s no displacement effect. When you travel by plane, train, car or bus, you just wake up in a completely foreign place.
Whereas traveling by bike stimulates all of your senses. As the temperature, geography, vegetation, language and culture change over distance, you witness it all.
At this point of the tour I have had some reflective conversations with my clients, where we compare what we have seen here to the worlds we left behind. Whether they come from a North American, Australian, South African or European descent it’s a much more modernized place than the small rural communities that we’ve been traveling through. The modern world has been designed to be disposable and convenient, from big box stores, fast food and mobile homes. Technological advances have made everything smaller, lighter and faster making the pace of life much quicker than it is here. It would almost seem that people here are behind the times. But that’s a first impression that I believe is incorrect. Here if you order beer or a coffee in an open market it comes in a frosted stein or an antique porcelain cup. The buildings here may seem old or worn down but they have been standing for much longer than anything back home. Craftsmanship is a trait that has been passed on from father to son and it might take generations to complete a single structure. The materials used are timeless, stone, brick and mortar, not vinyl siding and ply wood. The cobbled city streets are not closed to be repaved every five years. Cities are designed to cater to the bicycle not the automobile. Things may take a little longer but you must consider the quality of life not the quantity or speed of transactions.
I have really enjoyed the last 3 riding days because it’s a new route that I did not travel in the inaugural OE ’05. We’ve actually left the Danube to find some even more scenic bike paths that follow the Altmuhl River just to the north. Cycling conditions have been great. For the most part it’s been all sunshine and tailwinds. We have woken up to rain each morning, but it has subsided by the time we packed our tents. The Altmuhl is very similar to the upper reaches of the Danube lined by huge cliffs and dense forests. Germany, more than any other country we travel through, has a large canoeing culture. I’ve been envious to dip a paddle as I ride past hordes of people floating downstream in Old Town Tripper’s and Discovery’s. Unfortunately there’s no time for that.
Our rest stop today is in Regensburg, a World Heritage Site and a new destination for me. It received its heritage status based on the age of the city. Although we have visited several towns with magnificent structures, Regensburg has an amazing and historical townscape. The downtown core is filled with many ancient churches, stables and simple homes and linked in a maze of stony alleyways. Last night I ran into many of my clients who were out enjoying the nightlife of outdoor cafes and bars. I think they’re moving a little slow today. But it’s definitely a well deserved day of rest. Tomorrow we head out on the Danauradweg again on our way to Austria, country number 3.
Ulm is not only the birthplace of Albert Einstein but it also home to the largest steeple in Europe. Not sure if anyone took the opportunity to climb the stairs to the top as it has been raining all day. But we’re better to get the bad weather while resting rather than while cycling. For the last two days we’ve been riding the Donauradweg, a bike path following the Danube River. This path makes up 1400km of our tour from Donaueshingen, Germany to Budapest,  Hungary. We're going downstream so it should all be downhill… yeah right! You would think that following a bike path would be simple, but it is a fairly convoluted route. It loops through each village and intersects with several other local trails which can present some navigational challenges. Also riding 100km and riding 100km of bike path is very different. It makes for long days when you loose your momentum slowing for a village every 5 km. We had a big climbing day when we left Frieburg, 800m elevation over 12 km, and that was a detour. Our intended route was much steeper but closed for construction. Germany is much different than France. Obviously the food and language have changed but this area of the Black Forest is quite mountainous with huge stands of pine. The villages all have streams and canals with waterwheels and bright coloured buildings with ornamental minarets. Donaueshingen was our first destination on this stretch. Its actually the source of the Danube. When we departed, many of us toured back into the city to visit the spring. There is an incredible monument with the water bubbling up from the ground, which I completely missed years ago. We stopped for a photo shoot but left quickly as the tour busses pulled in. The beginning on the Danube is one of my favorite parts of the tour. The river is paralleled by huge limestone cliffs with water eroded formations hundreds of feet above the river, giving an eerie sense for the magnitude of what the river once was. Near the headwaters, the river is still small with occasional sets of rapids and the trail winds through beautiful forests.
Our second stop was Sigmaringen and the Schloss there has the largest collection of armour of any castle in Europe. It was a long day of riding so only a few of the cyclists did the tour but we got some great pictures. That day I tried to coordinate a pot luck social hour at our camp where everyone could bring some snacks, pastries, chocolates, wine etc., so we could experience some of the local flavours but most people just brought booze so it actually ended up being more like "Happy Hour". I must admit, this group of clients is a lot of fun.
Welcome to Germany; one country down and seven more to go. Our last stretch through France led us through the Alsacian region. Each day we rolled through the countryside;  green hills, small towns, streams, a few lakes and just a little mountain range. Our first stop was the town of Vittel, the source of the bottled water. The ride was a little longer than intended due to road closures and construction. This was the first thing that reminded me of summer in Ontario. But the cyclists had no problem navigating their way through the detour. In fact, I have taken them off our prescribed routes on several occasions in the last stretch. The backroads are far safer, more enjoyable and scenic. Our second day led us to the trout filled Lac de la Moselette. Two years ago this was where I saw one of the strangest things ever, a French Elvis impersonator and whole crew of French red-necks line-dancing in tight jeans cowboy boots, and Harley Davidson shirts. The route there had some great hills and yet another construction detour. Near the end of the day we had our first real rainstorm while on the road. Some riders trudged on through it, but I found myself waiting out the storm with 10 clients in a pub just outside Remiremont. It started with just three of us but with our bikes outside everyone just kept stopping in. And while we were enjoying the local flavours I received a call from Jon in camp saying that he managed to get little cabins for everyone. It was the best rain storm ever. On the third day we had to traverse the Col de la Schlutt, a mountain pass at 1140m. From camp we ascended 700m over a 30km stretch with the last 15km being a very challenging climb. I got the riders pretty pumped up for it and much to my amazement my clients actually complained that the hill wasn’t big enough (wait til they see where we are going tomorrow!). Some of the cyclists even continued to climb another 200m of elevation to the summit proper. I’m a bit of a speed freak so the descent into the Munstster Valley after lunch really got the adrenalin pumping. I think the only I could have done to go faster would have been to stop smiling so much. I don’t see how a big ear to ear grin is very aerodynamic, but there’s no better feeling than overtaking motorized vehicles on your bike. Dave came with me and the two of us were hollering the whole way down. That evening we camped in Colmar beside the river D’Ill. When I first led this tour in ’05 I tried to find a backcountry link from Colmar to the German border and I was unsuccessful. But this year I’ve had a bit more time to scout ahead and not only did I find some picturesque little villages linked by untravelled blacktop, but I discovered Neuf Brisach.
It’s a historical city dating back to the 1600’s built by one of the King Louis in honour of the sun. The city has a centre court with 8 branches extending out, the entire place is enclosed by ramparts and walls that are 15m thick and a moat surrounding the whole thing. From an aerial view the city would look like a rendition of the sun. Many of us spent time exploring the intricacies of this city and, of course, we had to have a coffee and pastry break. Leaving Neuf Brisach, we crossed the Rhine River into Germany. The backroads there are not well marked and even though we got a little turned around on the bike paths winding through the orchards we did manage to find a great vineyard. Some fresh berries and a glass of wine was fantastic way to conclude this last section. Now we are in Freiburg for a rest day. Everyone has been indulging on bratworst, schnitzels, spatzle and beer. Tomorrow we head out to Donaueshingen, the headwaters of the Danube river, but it’s a tough climb to get there, 800m of elevation over 9km of switchbacks.
I’m amazed at this groups’ ability to function as a 30 person community. Everyone helps each other which creates a fun atmosphere for all of us, so I’m sure that this little mountain will just be another one of our great accomplishments of the tour.
We have successfully completed our first leg of the tour; Paris to Chaumont, 296 km in 3 days. Everyone, staff and clients alike have had to make a transition to the lifestyle of cycle touring. It always takes a few days to figure out where everything goes, how to pack it and then you realize that you don’t actually need as much as you thought you did. There are friendships and bonds quickly forming between the cyclists as they have all found their riding buddies. The staff are fulfilling their roles and figuring out the daily routine.
Even the weather has been extremely cooperative with only one evening of rain.
Our first day began with a scenic tour of Paris where we traveled by bike path from the Gare de l’Est to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triumph. Getting out of Paris is not easy with a group of 25 cyclists. Traffic of course, being our biggest obstacle. As we get further from the over crowded capital and into the rural communities the roads become less busy and we find ourselves spinning through some magical countryside. The villages are quaint and the riders have taken to stopping for coffee or even something a little more spirited. Our two stops were the towns of Provins and Troyes.
Troyes is famous for its crooked buildings that have lost the ability to remain square over time. Leaving town we’ve traveled a cycleway that led us far from the beaten path around some beautiful lakes and forests thriving with waterfoul and tourists.
Today everyone is enjoying their first rest day. They are sampling the local restaurants and tending to the chores of laundry, bike maintenance, and correspondence with their kin before we head out again tomorrow morning. Our next leg of the tour takes us to Germany where we will spend a day of rest in Frieburg. Before we cross the border we must pass through the Vosges mountain range. One of our stages we retrace part of the tour de France where we have an 18 km climb to the Col de Schlutt. It will be the first taste of real hills on this years’ tour.
Well the long journey to Istanbul is underway and the first 105 km are complete. The riders arrived in the small town (and UNESCO Heritage site) of Provins. A wonderful town that gives a real sense of the real France.
The Tour Leader was ecstatic with the first day results: "So day one was a big success. Everything ran smoothly and as planned. Even the weather cooperated. Couldn't have asked for better start to the tour." stated Randy.
Stay tuned to our website as you will see much ore regular updates now from the field, and well as some new photos every few days.
I am writing to you from Paris and we depart for Istanbul tomorrow.
The last 10 days or so have been hectic but fun. I flew out of Toronto on the 24th and landed in Vienna. Then I lugged all my gear and tour supplies on the bus to Bratislava. I spent about four days there gathering my staff, vehicles and supplies. Piotr my mechanic (tour veteran) and Jon the chef, joined me there to help sort out the logistics. As expected, nothing ever turns out to be as simple as planned. Dealing with language barriers, foreign currencies and just locating everything was trying at times. My memories of the Slovakian capital from OE ‘05 were only of the industrial sector of town we rode through and the shopping mall. I spent most of my rest day there getting a couple of last minute clients decked out with a complete cycling kit. But this year my experience was far different. Henry put me in touch with some of his childhood and family friends who acted as translators for us. They invited me into their home for a traditional meal of roast chicken, potatoes and kale soup. Their home was an apartment in an old communist style high rise which was becoming decrepit from the outside but beautiful on the inside. After our feast we went into the old city and walked through the cobbled pedestrian mall. The historic architecture, cafes and bars lined the narrow entangled avenues. We stopped to sample some local ales, and I entertained them with stories of previous cycling expeditions. If you truly want to experience a foreign culture you must hangout with the locals.
Our road trip from Bratislava to Paris was about 1800km in 3 days. We scouted the route, picked up the last of our provisions and tested out all of our new gear. Our chef Jon spoiled Piotr and myself with bbq’ed meats, homemade soups and fresh squeazed OJ. I think Miles might have some competition. There wasn’t much time for us to enjoy Paris as we were busy meeting our clients and briefing them on the adventure that awaits them. Everything has fallen into place nicely and other than the wet weather forecast I think we should have a great first leg of the tour.
